Gay Travel Destination: Richmond, Virginia

When it comes to authenticity of place, no destination delivers more than the Richmond Region. The city is old, but the vibe in Richmond is new and its 400 years of history live on through magnificent architecture, monument-lined cobblestone streets, and world-class dining. Richmond boasts big-city amenities without big-city fuss. Its small-town charm combined with exquisite art, elegant architecture, unique boutiques and upscale shopping, lush gardens and a thriving nightlife make it the perfect destination for a weekend or long weekend getaway.

His­toric homes and neighborhoods, Civil War and Revolutionary War sites and museums, gardens and nature centers, science and art museums, sports teams and the James River offer countless things to do throughout the Region. And it’s so easy to get there. The Richmond Region is with­in a day’s drive of more than half of the U.S. population. It’s easily accessible by train and two low-cost air carriers fly into Richmond International Airport, a 10-minute drive to down­town.

Eat: Godfrey's offers popular Drag brunch on Sundays before transforming into night-time hot-spot. Gay-friendly New York Deli is located in funky Carytown just a couple doors down from the historic Byrd Theatre. Catch a movie after dinner for $1.99. Nacho Mama’s in Carytown is gay-owned and offers killer margaritas.

Sleep: TAG-certified Linden Row Inn, housed downtown in old Victorian-era row homes, is a historic urban hotel with a European style. The Linden Row boasts a beautiful winding garden courtyard (where famed Master of Macabre Edgar Allan Poe played as a child) and partners with nearby 1508 gallery to host rotating satellite exhibits. The Maury Place B&B is also TAG-certified and located on Beautiful Monument Avenue (the only street listed on the National Historic Register) in the heart of the Museum District.

Shop: Carytown is Richmond’s nine-block “Mile of Style” where independent shops and restaurants reign. Grab a quick bite at Galaxy Diner, sip lattes and people watch at Bin 22 or peruse the antiques and boutiques. Nearby is Diversity Thrift, an all-encompassing thrift store whose proceeds are used to support the Region's gay community.

Night: Babes has a great patio and great entertainment. Feildens is a private club, but if you know a member, you can go as a guest. Barcode and Godfrey’s downtown are also great night-time spots.

Arts: Virginia Commonwealth University, known for its top-ranked arts programs, serves as the anchor to a thriving arts scene that continues to grow. Home of the largest art collection in the Southeast, the Virginia Museum of Fine Arts is currently undergoing an expansion that will place it among the top-ten comprehensive art museums in the U.S. When all galleries re-open in May of 2010, the VMFA will welcome the popular traveling exhibit “Tiffany: Color and Light.” Don’t miss Richmond’s many fantastic galleries.

Sweat: The scenic James River distinguishes the Richmond as the only urban setting with Class IV rapids – just one form of outdoor recreation for thrill seekers. Local company Riverside Outfitters offers bike rentals, kayaking, tubing and even tree-climbing excursions.

Scream: Nearby amusement park Kings Dominion this spring will add the Intimidator 305 – all about crazy speed and intense G-forces.

Events: The Gay Pride Festival is an annual celebration held each fall in one of the area's outdoor parks, and each summer, Gay Day is held at Kings Dominion, the area's amusement park. For more gay-friendly events, happenings, and discussion, check out GayRVA.com or the Richmond Metro CVB’s GLBT page.

For more information about the Richmond Region, go to www.VisitRichmondVa.com.

Gay-friendly Hawaii Accomodations

We came across this link for the Aqua Hotels' diversity page (they are members of IGLTA and are TAG Approved). I've heard from some gay travelers via Twitter that they are fun places to stay. There are some excellent deals going on for Aqua's local chain of boutique hotels in Hawaii--their Waikiki hotels are centrally located, and though I've never stayed at one, their lobbies make them look fun!

Have you stayed at any of these? Here's a listing of Aqua Hotels on OutAdvisor--write a travel review and let other LGBT travelers know what you think!

For more info on Aqua Hotels' Diversity Program: http://www.aquaresorts.com/aqua-programs/diversity-program.aspx

You can also find 60 listings & gay travel reviews for LGBT businesses in Hawaii on OutAdvisor.com! We cover all the islands. Aloha!

"You look very nice, you're wearing your c-cksucker" -- Sophie Zawistowski, European Discount Traveler

For anyone on a tight budget who has to make the heartbreaking Sophie's Choice between a pampered, non-stop, private bed-cabin, double-decker Airbus A-380 flight or a silk sheet, 5 star service, marble steam bath and jacuzzi soaking tub hotel suite, you do have options if you decide to hand over your transportation dreams to the economic reality Nazi.

If you are traveling to Europe from North America, it's no secret that there are now a plethora of homegrown discount airlines flying between European cities at cutthroat prices. And the the same phenomenon is spreading now to Southeast Asia, too! Soooo, what does this mean for the fabulous gay or lesbian or transgendered traveler on a budget who needs to save every penny for those $14 cocktails, $30 cover charges, and $300 hotel rooms in Rome, Berlin, Bangkok, or Hong Kong? Fly to major hub and then book a separate connecting flight on one of those discount airlines! In Europe, THE hub is London. In Southeast Asia, it's Kuala Lumpur (Malaysia) and Singapore. It's often easier to find steeply discounted ticket prices to these cities than other comparable cities in Europe and Asia. Then once you get there, you continue on a flight they may cost you just another 10 extra euros or Singapore dollars!

Say you can only find a roundtrip flight to Warsaw (and with connections still!) for $800. A flight to London, however, is only $500. Then say a discount airline like Ryanair or Easyjet is offering a roundtrip flight from London to Warsaw for just $15 dollars. That's a total of $515 dollars versus $800.

What are the downsides? Well, the flight schedules may not always mesh, which means you might have to stay an extra day in London or Singapore -- which may be a plus for some; but these are not cheap cities. This is more likely than not, since you have to book the flights separately, so you have to leave yourself plenty of time to make your connection -- especially if you check bags. This brings up the other risk that if there is a delay in either flight, the other airline will bear no responsibility in getting you to your destination if you miss your connection.

Then there's the question of "how in the world do these airlines make money, just charging $15?" (sometimes even with promotions of -$1! Yes, the airline is paying YOU to fly them). Well, first of all, these prices do not include taxes and fees, which is usually another $20 to $40. Second, nothing else on the flight is free. Be prepared to shell out money for drinks, food, pillows, priority boarding, assigned seats, and the biggest kicker of all -- checked luggage. Checking luggage can set you back upwards of $50 each way (Still, a $155 ticket ain't bad, depending). The discount airlines can also be particularly fascist (like a camp guard) in their ruthless search for efficiency, when it comes to checking in "on time" (another reason to budget in lots of connection time). I once arrived at little Ciampino airport in Rome barely after the 45 minute check-in window for Ryanair, but they utterly refused to budge (it's not like security and the terminal were a logistical challenge). In a word, be prepared to be treated not as a human being, but as faceless cattle.

BUT, if you travel light, and your connections work (and it IS do-able -- I've been doing it for years), you can save several hundred dollars with which you can pamper yourself and wash away the frustration of getting where you want (and deserve!) to go.

http://www.easyjet.com/

http://www.ryanair.com/site/EN/

http://www.tigerairways.com/

http://www.airasia.com/

http://www.euroflights.info/

http://www.travelsuperlink.com/asiadiscountair
  

 

An American in Gay Ireland -- Impressions by Haiku

AerLingus alights.
Empty stomach greets sunrise.
Just juice, the plane lands.

Drive Burren dreamscape. . .
Back to the left! TO THE LEFT!
Death is averted.

A Bar in Temple
Spirits flowing, straights glowing . . .
Where is Pantibar?

Dublin welcomes you!
See George, Enter the Dragon
Eire, I will come.

Black hair, blue eyes, hard,
Single, White, O'Callaghan
You go Brách! You go!

Here is black pudding.
What did you say was in it?
I have to lie down.

AerLingus alights.
Service requests disappear
Into the dark void.

Favorite Travel iPhone Applications

Most of my iPhone apps center around travel (what's around me?) or take the place of apps on my computer (Facebook, Kindle, etc.). There are more apps for the iPhone than you could ever look at--from currency converters, to museum tours, to restaurant reviews. Apple even has an entire page devoted to Apps for Traveling. Oh, and did I mention I typically download the free ones?

Here are some of my recent favorites; more are sure to come.

AroundMe: When I'm in a part of town I'm not familiar with, I use the AroundMe app to find where I am on the map, then use the menu to find places of interest that are, well, around me. It's one of the better geolocational tools I've used, with listings on Bars, Restaurants, ATMs, Hospitals, Theaters, Supermarkets and more. So it can be used when you and your friends need to find a place to hang out or for more every-day activities like finding a gas station or checking the weather. There's even a Nearby category, which is kind of like putting your finger on a map and seeing whatever listings pop up.

Public Radio Player: I downloaded this app this morning when I rolled in to work to find they've blocked me from streaming NPR news on my desktop! The app has a cool 'local' tool that uses GPS to find the local station in your area. You can search for others, say WBFO from my home town, and star as many as you like as favorites. One of my biggest frustrations with Apple music players has always been the lack of radio tuners, but now NPR can go wherever I do. And the coolest feature? On Demand programming that'll allow you to listen to your favorite programs--This American Life, Talk of the Nation, Fresh Air--any time of day!

TweetDeck: Similar to the desktop application, TweetDeck is the best Twitter app I've used on the iPhone. It allows multiple accounts and can display multiple keyword windows. Plus I can quickly check our OutAdvisor tweets while standing in line at the store, in between meetings, or waiting for the Metro! Don't forget to follow us a twitter.com/outadvisor!

What I'm still looking for is a photo app that does geotagging of my photos. Know of one? Let us know, and let us know what other travel apps you like!

--Jeff

Social Networking Survey

Social-networking tools such as Facebook, Twitter, and LinkedIn have gained huge amounts of momentum in recent years and are a great way to promote your travel-related business. By posting articles, pictures, or updates, you can keep in regular contact with your customers who connect with you online. More importantly, your updates will be seen by an even larger audience: by people whose searches match your information or by friends-of-friends who see your information when it is reposted or commented.

The National Gay & Lesbian Chamber of Commerce posted the results of an online survey asking partcipants how they used social-networking tools. 100% of respondents used the tools for networking, 94% for marketing, and 61% for contacting customers. Facebook, LinkedIn, and Twitter were the most popular tools.

OutAdvisor regularly updates our tools with the latest travel-related deals, articles, reviews, tips, and more! Here are some free resources:

• twitter.com/outadvisor
• outadvisor.com/facebook
• outadvisor.com/linkedin
• outadvisor.com/blog
  

Shanghai Surprise 上海驚奇

“Communist China” – not the type of place you'd expect to find a thriving gay scene. But China today is about as Communist as the Old Party is Grand (though Republicans ARE old and getting even older). Shanghai today is a brash, flashy, neon-percolating city of excess, and out to party like there's no tomorrow. I was there during the week of the longest solar eclipse of the century, and I can assure you that the parade of celestial bodies wasn't only in the sky.

Shanghai Eclipsed

Nowadays, as long as you don't criticize the government and shy away from politics, it seems like anything goes in China, especially if you're trying to get people to spend money. And gays . . . spend . . .money. So naturally gay bars and night clubs have started sprouting up all over the city. That's actually a problem, in that the two most popular gay nightspots are on opposite sides of town (well, opposite sides of the older inner city – Shanghai is a megalopolis of 20 million people).

One cluster of bars is located in the so-called “gay triangle” on the western edge of the old French Concession district of the city. The closest subway station is the Henshan station on the number 2 line, but it's still a bit of a walk, so a taxi would probably still be the better bet (and taxis are cheap – only 11 to 14 RMB (around US$2) for the first 3 kilometers). It took me a good 10 to 15 minutes to walk the distance from the metro station, and that was speaking Chinese and asking for directions twice.

I visited two of the more frequented watering holes – Eddy's and Shanghai Studio. Though both of them have addresses stating they're on Huaihai Road, they're both actually just off the Road at a major, but quiet, intersection where several streets meet. Eddy's red sign is visible looking down one of the intersecting streets, while Shanghai Studio is especially well hidden down a wide alleyway (walk down and look to your right). The décor color of choice in Chinese clubs, it seems, is red. Red glowing lights, red glowing bars, and red stylized posters of Mao – all very chic and Sex and the City a la chinois.

Eddy's is a smart, but small bar, and was packed. Dress code – summer casual. Drinks – beers and tonics. Boys – Asian with a sprinkle of White. More “scenic” than cruisy, it seems to be one of the must-stops for expats and tourists in Shanghai.

Eddy's

Shanghai Studio was a little more unique. After entering at ground level, you descend down a long, warmly lit, twisting art gallery passageway until you reach a warren of chambers. Here you have a bar, there you have a dance floor, here you have a lounge, there you have another bar, oh wait, here you have an underwear store, oh, and then another bar . . . It's an intimate and cozy affair, but with the maze of rooms, you can easily lose yourself in the crowd.

Shanghai Studio

After drinks and cigarettes (yes, they do smoke a lot in the Middle Kingdom – so Europeans, make yourself at home), it seems that half the gay triangle clientele up and treks across town to D2 – THE place to be on Saturday nights. In the renovated “Cool Docks” (or “Lao Ma Tou” (Old Docks) in Chinese) retail/shopping complex on the Huangpu River, it is a thumping, giant warehouse style dance club that could easily be at home in London or New York.

D2 (Thanks to Im Stone for the pic)

With a typical large dance floor flanked by a floor length balcony and topped with a giant bar lounge, this is the place to be for shirtless, Asian beefcake sightings (even though a sign at front prohibits “shirtlessness” in public areas).

Celestial Body (Thanks to Im Stone for the pic)

Standing in the midst of all the colored lights; flashing strobes; gyrating, muscled bodies; and thumping music with drink in hand, I couldn't help but wonder what Mao would have made of all this. A Cultural Revolution indeed. 上海同志们万岁万万岁！

Travel Destination: Antigua, Guatemala

With 37 volcanoes, 23 separate languages, 19 different ecosystems and countless Mayan and Colonial ruins, it is no surprise that Guatemala - a country no bigger than Tennessee - is mentioned four times in the #1 Bestseller, 1,000 Places to See Before You Die.

Antigua, Guatemala's most beautiful and historic city, is rapidly becoming a favorite destination for GLBT travelers because it is like having a little bit of Europe, just south of the border, but at a fraction of the cost.

Nestled between three dramatic volcanoes in Central America, Antigua, Guatemala is one of the world's oldest and most beautiful colonial cities. This majestic, 400 year-old UNESCO World Heritage Site is the most visited city in Central America and its popularity only continues to grow as recently underscored by its winning “TOP City” at the recent Wanderlust’s 2009 Travel Awards, beating out more than 600 other popular world destinations.

In Antigua you can explore the ruins, museums, art galleries, restaurants and shops that are dotted throughout the famous cobblestone streets of this former capital of Guatemala. Centrally located, Antigua is also the perfect base from which to take short trips to other popular destinations like Lake Atitlan, the Pacific Coast and the world famous Mayan Temples of Tikal. Known as the "land of the eternal spring", Antigua has a humidity-free average temperature of 75 degrees all year round, so there is never a bad time to visit.

ANTIGUA, GUATEMALA RESOURCES & ACCOMMODATION

• George’s Travel Club of Guatemala – A trip to Guatemala can be a world-class vacation experience full of amazing places to see and unique things to do. For the average tourist, however, travel in Guatemala can also be very confusing and even dangerous. GLBT Travelers can relax and simply enjoy their experience in Guatemala by using the Gay Travel Services of George’s Travel Club of Guatemala. With George ALL your the trip details are taken care of - thus ensuring your safety and ensuring that they see and do only the best that this amazing country has to offer.

• One of the most beautiful and distinctive features of Antigua are the spectacular 400-year-old ruins that can be found on nearly every corner of this enchanting, centuries-old city. Many of these ruins can actually be rented for various private events – making any party, meeting, ceremony or wedding uniquely memorable.

• Casa Santa Domingo, a 5-Star Hotel which is built right into the ruins, is Antigua’s most famous and impressive hotel. This hotel warrants serious consideration from anyone planning a trip to Antigua.

• For those seeking a more “natural, outdoor garden” experience – check out the beautiful and serene Quinta de Las Flores.

• Black & White Bar is the largest gay bar and disco in nearby Guatemala City.

This article was written in cooperation with George Sansoucy, George’s Travel Club of Guatemala.

Save some time at the security line

Flying has become increasingly complicated in recent years due to heightened security and poor airline finances. One dreaded hurdle is the security check-in line. The line speed and length varies with each airport, and you won't know what it's like until you get there. Since not everyone is a frequent flier and familiar with the security process, be patient. You can't hurry them through the line, but here are some tips to get yourself through a little faster.

1. Give yourself extra time to get through the line. Then you can relax in the gate areas while avoiding the stress of coming up short on time. Pull out your book or magazine and start your vacation early!
2. Watch the security videos while you're waiting. It'll pass the time, give you a few tips, and possibly remind you of something you've forgotten.
3. Unlace your shoes and remove your belt and sweater or jacket before you reach the bins.
4. Take two bins, because most likely you will need them. Remember that laptops go in their own bins; bags go on the belt.
5. Remember the 3-1-1 rule for liquids, and be sure the bag is easily accessible when it's time to put it in the bin.
6. You must empty your water bottle before you go through the line. But do take a reusable bottle so you have it on the flight and all through the vacation; you'll also avoid unnecessary trash and lower your carbon footprint.
7. Scan the lines ahead and avoid ones with families or travelers who don't look prepared to go through the line--it's likely they will require extra time.
8. Bring an extra plastic bag for your change, cell phone, keys, and other items you'll need to remove from your pockets. Sweatshirt pockets also work great!
9. Keep your boarding pass in hand until you are through the line! But put your I.D. away after the initial check.
10. After you've made it through the line, move your possessions to a nearby bench. You'll be less harried to put things back together and will make it easier for everyone else to come through.

For more information on What to Know Before You Go:
http://www.tsa.gov/travelers/index.shtm

TSA: Wait Time Calculator (under construction)
http://www.tsa.gov/travelers/waittime.shtm

Pride in the Nation's Capital!

God loves the Gays! On June 14th, she sent a burst of sunshine and zephyr winds to usher in the 2009 Capital Pride Festival in Washington D.C. For the first time among the Capitol and other neoclassical monuments of downtown D.C. was Outadvisor's own temple to gay travel.


The festival, in its 34th year, attracted over 250,000 attendees, many of whom were happily saved from travel confusion and enlightened in the ways of convenient gay travel research at the Outadvisor.com tent. We managed to snag a prime spot -- just a few meters down from the Nuwear underwear pavillion. The crowds were overflowing and the scenery couldn't be beat -- gorgeous . . . if not a little distracting! :)

Hundreds upon hundreds of attendees, including Candace Gingrich and Deacon Maccubbin (founder of iconic local DC GLBT bookstore Lambda Rising) , stopped by to be educated on the 7,000+ worldwide listings of GLBT owned or friendly hotels, B&B's, bars, clubs, restaurants, etc. at Outadvisor.com -- as well as enter into a raffle for a Southwest Airlines gift card (Congrats, Bryan!). And a heartfelt thanks to our Outadvisor Boy, Steve, who worked it all afternoon to make sure that everyone passing within a radius of 50 feet was aware of us.


DC is our hometown and we were so filled with Pride to be able to participate in the festival for the first time this year! As RuPaul (who closed out the festival) advised - you better work! We did, and we had fun at it, too - you can check out our video of the festival below!

Outadvisor at Capital Pride 2009 in Washington, D.C.

Destination: Playa del Carmen, Mexico

This time of year in the Riviera Maya, the coastal area south of Cancun which includes the popular destination of Playa Del Carmen, the ocean is at its best. With the sudden slowdown in travel to Mexico, there are some great deals to be found with lower prices, more freedom, and less crowds.

Playa Del Carmen is one of the top tourist destinations in the Americas, which lends to its eclectic and multicultural feel. The highlights of the area are the miles of white sandy beaches and turquoise waters of the Mexican Caribbean. Diving, fishing, snorkeling, sailing and swimming are some of the many activities that vacationers choose to participate in. Mayan Ruins throughout the region provide a great avenue for those interested in this vast history. And the nightlife compares to many international cities, if not better.

If you are going to the area here are some great leads of gay-friendly hotels and restaurants

Hotel Tropical CasaBlanca This is an oasis in the middle of town, close to all amenities, and across the street from the beach. The hotel is gay friendly and will support exchange of vows ceremonies in their private cenote.

Cocina 38 A cannot be missed restaurant away from the popular La Quinta. The Guatemalan chef has trained in Madrid, London and Mexico and creates some of the most exotic dishes this side of the globe. Cocina 38 is located on 5th Avenue between 38th and 40th Streets in Playa del Carmen.

Playa 69 A gay bar in the middle of town that is not public. Though difficult to find, ask locals and they can tell you where it is located. Playa 69 is located on 5th Avenue between Calles 4 and 6.

Written in cooperation with Hotel Tropical CasaBlanca

Mexico Travel and H1N1 Status

The World Health Organization (WHO) is no longer recommending any travel restrictions due to the H1N1 influenza virus. At the start of the influenza outbreak, airlines across the globe had cancelled flights into Mexico as the media and some health organizations urged travelers to avoid the area. However, since the warning was released in April 2009, there are now more documented cases throughout the globe than in Mexico, and no travel restrictions currently exist.

Within Mexico, the virus was contained to Mexico City and some surrounding cities. According to hoteliers with local knowledge, the coastal tourist destinations did not report any cases of the H1N1 virus within its local hospitals or health clinics. Once the numbers of cases in the U.S. exceeded those in Mexico, the Global Health Organizations lifted any travel warnings that were issued.

In reality, many more people die every year from typical influenza outbreaks than they have from the H1N1 virus. To keep yourself healthy while at home or abroad, follow the same tips you would any other time of the year, such as washing your hands regularly and maintaining a healthy diet and sleep regimen.

For official information, please visit WHO.

Video from the 2009 IGLTA Convention in Toronto!

Fresh from the Toronto Convention!

OutAdvisor attended our first IGLTA conference, which was hosted in Toronto, Canada! We had a great time meeting other travel professionals and touring the city. If you haven't visited Toronto, move it to the top of your list! The gayborhood centered around Church St. and Wellesley St. is one of the largest we've seen. West Queen West is another popular neighborhood with galleries and boutique shops. And don't miss the recent expansions at the Royal Ontario Museum and the Art Gallery of Ontario.

We met travel agents, tour operators, hoteliers, and other travel professionals from 21 countries around the world! It was a great time swapping stories and learning about everyone's business. OutAdvisor was new to many of the attendees, and we enjoyed sharing our free Web site services with them. Here are just a few reasons business owners, professionals, and travelers should be using our Web site!

• Free on-line business listings! — It's always free for business owners to add and manage their listing. Travelers who don't find the business they're looking for can always add it too. Join one of the fastest growing gay-owned/friendly business lists on the web—over 6,400 businesses worldwide!
  
  
• Ratings and reviews — Travelers want more than your street address; they want reviews raving about your shop's style or the fabulous trips your travel agents plan. You can even add your reviews RSS feed to your Web site! Ask your customers to write a review so others will take notice!
  
  
• Social networking tools — OutAdvisor integrates all the latest social networking tools so with a click of the button, members' friends on Facebook, Twitter, Digg, etc. can see your business listing!

We look forward to next year's IGLTA conference in Antwerp, Belgium!

--Jeff

Tour d'Italia, Day Three

After the late, late night out at the club (we got in around 3:30 am...) we slept in and missed breakfast at the B&B, so we went out to the square just steps away at the Campo dei Fiori and had pizza at one of the many cafes there. Afterwards, we made our way to the Vatican. We took the metro, but probably could have walked.

St. Peter's Square was large and majestic, but lucky for us, there were far fewer tourists than I imagine there usually are. The line to get in was only about 20 mins. long. One thing to note is the free bathrooms outside the basilica. The toilets in Italy were generally a bit disappointing, in that barely any public toilets I found (whether actual public toilets, or in shops or restaurants) had an actual seat (it wasn't that they were built without them, they were simply gone). The irony in the pristine Vatican toilets was, that this was my first experience at a "squat toilet" (I wasn't even familiar with the concept until the past few years, when Alex told me that most of the toilets in Asia would be squat toilets). Well...at least they were clean.

St. Peter's Basilica was incredibly over the top. Having grown up Catholic, I used to dream about seeing the Vatican some day. It didn't disappoint in its grandeur. But I couldn't help but think that this place had to be about as far from what Jesus would have wanted as could be. The man who threw the money changers from the temple and lived a life of poverty, now had the most famous church dedicated to him full of marble and gold. It makes me wonder how the irony has escaped people over the millenia.

We were disappointed to find out that the Vatican museums and the Sistene Chapel were closed that day, so of course we'd have to make our way back again the next day. I wasn't going to go all the way to Rome and not see the Sistene Chapel.

After our tour we walked outside the Vatican and had some gelato (I probably had gelato at least twice a day). The place we went to struck me as having especially bad customer service. One thing I can say for the US is that businesses will generally treat you fairly well. Not every single one, of course, and I've had my share of bad customer service experiences in the US, but in Italy, I didn't get the impression that most people were very conscious of customer service in their businesses. Having lived in Europe in the past for several years, I was used to this, but I look forward to the day when politeness and customer service take over continental Europe.

Nearby was the Castel Sant'Angelo, a castle that housed former popes. It did allow a nice view of the city. After touring it (yet another free museum!) it was late afternoon and we made our way back to the B&B to relax for a bit before heading out for dinner.

For dinner, we picked a gay-friendly restaurant in the Trastevere neighborhood, a neighborhood known as being especially gay friendly. The restaurant featured Chinese cuisine, and the food was excellent, check out our review here: http://outadvisor.com/content/view/6806/32/#user_reviews. Suffice it to say, we had a good, atypical Roman meal. With the late night from before, we were tired, and headed back to the B&B to sleep soon after dinner. The next day would be a long one with a drive to central Italy in the afternoon.

Tour d'Italia, Day Two

I woke up relatively early (8:30am) and refreshed on the 2nd day, my first full day in Italy. Even if I hadn't slept about 12 hours, I would have woken up anyway because it was a bit noisy in the hallway, which doubled as the breakfast area. Once I was showered I left the room to meet some of the other people staying at the B&B, always one of the fun things about traveling—the interesting people you meet. After breakfast, I made my way to the Termini train station on foot to meet up with Alex. I brought my hand held GPS unit along with a European map download—it proved to be useful more than once, especially for someone who is so bad with orienting himself in a new place, and even more so in Europe, where the cities grew up organically, rather than being planned like most US cities. No grid of streets in room, signore. It was about a mile and a half from the B&B, so I got some good exercise and saw more of Rome.

Once I found Alex in the train station, we hit the McDonalds there for a quick lunch. (Oh, I know, what a terrible travel faux pas! But I like McDonalds, and if I am going to be some place for more than a week with ample food sampling opps, I like to see if Mickey D's tastes like home; plus I'd rather save the time and see more sites than spend a few hours on lunch, which can often be the case in Europe. Just getting the check can take an hour alone...). We then made our way immediately to the Colosseum and Forum. I had visited the outsides of both the day before, but wanted to save the actual tours till I could do them with Alex. As it turned out, we got totally lucky on the week we chose to visit Italy. It was their National Cultural Week in which admission to most museums is completely free, and there are many additional cultural events. The Roma Pass people were nice enough to give us a full refund, since we had purchased the tickets (it gives discounted museum entrances) well in advance and hadn't known about the cultural week until just before the trip.

Both the Colosseum (aka the Flavian Amphiteater) and the Forum are as impressive, if not more so, than I had imagined. I imagined the horror of what went on in the Colosseum (so named because a Colossus statue once stood there, but it has completely disappeared). And I also tried to imagine the maritime events that occurred there when they filled the bottom with water—legend says they actually had naval battles there! The Forum is more of a widespread area with tons of temples and ruins, and is almost completely outdoors. Both are high up on the list of things one should see in Rome, even if they are fairly touristy.

Another famous spot is the Spanish Steps, and we made our way towards them via the Rome metro. The metro was fairly easy to figure out, though not very extensive. We made our way from the back/top of the steps down to the bottom. It was an interesting view from the top. The area was one of the most crowded I saw in Rome, with people going up and down the steps and also milling about at the bottom. It was a great place for people watching.

At this point it was starting to get dark, but we made our way to the nearby Pantheon but just took a look from the outside, intending to visit again in the near future. Afterwards, we were pretty hungry, so we found a cute little cafe with outdoor seating in one of the narrow streets and had our first Italian dinner. Though neither of us are big drinkers, we had to have a glass of wine with our pasta, which was delicious. One friend told us beforehand "it's hard to find a bad meal in Italy" and he was right.

We headed back to the B&B to rest up a bit before hitting the Roman club scene that night. It was 1am by the time we made it to the club (OK, we slept in a little too long, then had trouble finding the place). We went to Gorgeous http://outadvisor.com/content/view/5736/82/ which was the most happenin' nightclub in Rome. There were mostly gay men there, but it was a mix of lesbians and straight people as well (in fact, there was a room there that was for ladies only). They had go-go boyz (all pretty hot), and room after room of music and shows, and the place was jam packed. We made our way back via the bus (the only thing running) at 3am to finish our first day together in Rome.

Tour d'Italia, Day One

Alex and I did a small tour of Italy this past week to see the sites and do some reviews for OutAdvisor.com. We traveled separately, and I left Thursday evening from DC. I was using airline miles and nearly didn't make my flight, despite being two hours early (this is why I am overly cautious in arriving super early when I travel! :) ). As it turned out, USAirways messed up the ticketing process on the flight with their partner, United, for the non-stop flight to Rome. I had tried to check in online the night before (always a good idea), but couldn't. I just figured this was a quirk of theirs for international travel, since they generally want someone to see a passport before you board the plane. When I got to the United counter after about a 20 min. wait, they said they could see the reservation, but that it had not been ticketed, and sent me to USAirways (which, of course, was at the opposite corner of the airport). I was only mildly worried at this point with an hour and a half to go. The USAirways ticket agent was less than helpful. She said there was nothing that she could do, and that I'd have to call the USAirways miles number. I was slightly panicked at this point, since I only had about an hour to go. Luckily, I had my iPhone and could look up the number. I told the woman on the other end what the agents had told me, and that I was completely panicked at this point, and I was on the phone with her for about 15 mins. trying to get it straightened out. At this point, I was getting close to the 45 minute limit on checking into the flight at all, so I dashed over to United once again in the hopes I'd be able to check in while still on the phone. Sure enough, once I got there, there was another line for the agents, so I tried a kiosk, and it worked. The USAirways woman on the phone wasn't sure it would still let me check it, but bless it's heart, it did. I wasn't checking luggage so I quickly make my way to the security area, which also had a decent line. I made it through smoothly and got on the plane with about 10 minutes to spare. Phew! I really thought my entire first day in Italy was going to be flushed down the drain. So, bad USAirways for messing up the ticketing process, but bless the USAirways woman who helped me out in a tight spot and was super sympathetic.

I sat next to a Sicilian woman who turned out to be one of the most interesting air travel companions I've ever had. She had lived in Ohio the past 20 years and worked as a caterer and food designer, and was on the trip to research medieval Sicilian cuisine for a forthcoming book. We had some really fascinating conversations about her and her family's lives and I told her my story as well.

In addition to doing the trip to review gay Italy for OutAdvisor, we were doing a side trip to my ancestral hometown in central Italy, not far from where the earthquake recently struck. I had been planning the trip for a few years to research my great-grandparents' stories. It had originally been planned as a big family trip, but my uncle ended up having heart surgery recently, and everyone else bailed out since he couldn't make the trip but Alex and me (we had already booked flights and hotels that were non-refundable; traveling alone also gave us more time to check out and review venues of interest to GLBT travelers; and my uncle is doing fine, thanks :) ).

I ended up getting a little bit of sleep and was excited to spend my first whole day in Rome, which I had never before visited. Alex would be arriving a day later, spending his first day in Florence. I checked into B&B InandOut http://outadvisor.com/content/view/3608/74/ in the morning after making my way to the Termini train station via the airport express train. Loved the B&B (see my full review here: http://outadvisor.com/content/view/3608/74/#user_reviews). Small room, and a bit noisy outside, but well-run and a can't-beat location by the Campo dei Fiori with non-stop day- and night-life. Its proximity to many of the major sites was also key, plus it is owned by a lesbian couple, and we always do our best when traveling to patronize not just gay-friendly, but gay owned and run businesses. After checking in and relaxing for a bit, I went out to discover some of Rome for myself.

I found my way around the outside of the famed Forum (nothing especially funny happened on the way). It was a pretty incredible site to see ruins that aren't just hundreds but thousands of years old. Past the Forum, I made my way to the Colosseum, which was even more impressive than I had always imagined it would be. I held off actually entering any of them, since I wanted to wait till Alex arrived, but that didn't stop me from taking plenty of pictures.

Afterwards, I got a gelato (how couldn't you? it was a spring day in Rome, plus you couldn't throw a little crunchy thingy without hitting a gelato stand, pretty much anywhere in Rome) and made my way back to the hotel. It was already early evening by now, and I had intended to nap and then go out for dinner, though I ended up pretty much sleeping straight through till the next morning, when it was time to meet up with Alex at the train station.

All in all, a great first day, but I was looking forward to more fun and adventure once Alex arrived. And I wouldn't be disappointed!

—Scott

Tourist in Your Own Town

We all would like to fit more travel into our busy schedules, but time and money limits when we can take a getaway. So why not spend the weekend exploring the places you love in your town or city? There are always museums, restaurants, parks, and other places we wish we had more time to revisit.

I'm fortunate to live in Washington, D.C. where there is never a shortage of something cultural to do, and I don't know of any other place that has as many free museums. Here are some things I did this weekend when summery weather hit, and some other options in case you want to visit!

No matter where you live, I'm sure there are great places in your city or town to plan a weekend itinerary.

Sunny and 85 degree weather was enough to make me brave the tourist crowds on the National Mall. I visited the East Wing of the National Gallery to check out some modern and contemporary art. The architecture of the building is as enjoyable as the art, and the huge Calder mobile never disappoints. The Philip Guston exhibit in the tower gallery has a handful of paintings spanning his career.

The most enjoyable exhibit was installed in the underground passageway leading from the East Gallery to the West Gallery. The metal ceiling and walls were covered in 41,000 LEDs that changed patterns as you rode along the moving sidewalk. Very cool! At the end of the walkway is the museum's cafeteria, gelato and espresso cafe, and probably one of the best museum bookstores I've seen.



After leaving the museum, I grabbed an iced coffee and walked up to the Gallery Place neighborhood. This revitalized neighborhood also includes Chinatown, and is a popular destination for its many restaurants surrounding the Verizon Center, where the Washington Capitals play hockey and many concerts are held. The central focus are the conjoined buildings housing the Museum of American Art and the National Portrait Gallery. The newly-completed courtyard should not be missed.

From there I took a long walk through Metro Center, where a lot of downtown shopping is located, and past the White House. I walked up 17th St. to the Dupont Circle neighborhood, which is still the center of the GLBT community. 17th between P and T streets has many restaurants and bars. JR's and Dupont Italian Kitchen are old standbys. We opted for dinner at a mexican restaurant off the circle and drinks late that night at Nellie's Sports Bar.